Context Fancy Cut Diamond
The Context cut is a registered trademark and patent of Dr.
Ulrich Freiesleben of Munster, Germany. In 1997, the Context cut won the
"Best of the Best Award" for highest quality design in the Design
Innovationen competition in Germany.
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND CUTTING ISSUES
The Context was researched and developed in the early 1980s by Dr.
Freiesleben, based on a patented design from the early 1960s by master gem
designer Bernd Munsteiner. It is a square shape with a girdle and two culets.
When viewed from the top, the stone exhibits a four-point, star-shaped, diagonal
cross. The cross illusion is created with eight facets on each side.
The light
refraction from the facets creates a mirrored optical phenomenon. The overall shape is that of a pyramid above and a pyramid
below, with their flat sides joined, nuking the cut as close to the natural
shape of an octahedron as a cut diamond can be. It is distinguished from other
fancies because of its simplicity and uniqueness.
Only one out of every 100,000 rough diamonds is of the quality needed for
shaping the Context cut. As the heart of each perfect crystal used for the cut
yields only one diamond, there is more waste per stone. The amount of yield
varies, depending on the individual octahedron.
MARKETS AND MARKETING
The cut, which was developed in Germany, has been selling for about 12 years
in Europe, mostly to high-end designers and manufacturers. Many U. S. designers
are attracted to its classic modernity. It is used as a center stone for
engagement rings and as accent stones in many types of jewelry.
As an expensive designer cut, it has not yet gained a following in mid-markets
or lower. But awareness of the Context is rapidly increasing in the United
States thanks to advertising and marketing efforts over the years. Trade
magazine ads and editorial press have helped to get the word out. The JCK
International Jewelry Show in June 1998 premiered a collection called
"American Designers...in Context," featuring set jewelry using this
cut by well-known designers.
PRICING AND SUPPLY
There is a very limited supply of Context cuts and they are expensive to
make, especially in .50-carat sizes and above. The Context is substantially more
expensive than traditional cuts of the same size and weight.
WHAT BUYERS SHOULD LOOK FOR
The Context exhibits high reflectivity, which is apparent visually. Relative
light reflectivity is 115.4 percent, compared to the Antwerp Diamond High
Council's (HRD) measurement of brilliants at 100 percent and Tolkowsky's
measurement of brilliants at 104.9 percent. A J-color Context will often reflect
lighter than its color grade, as evidenced by sample tests done by an
independent applied optics institute in Germany. Gemological Institute of
America (GIA) has also graded some Context Cuts.
Each Context is laser-etched with an individual serial number that refers to a
database containing information on that stone's particularities, its source and
cutter. There is also room for additional inscriptions.