Briolette Fancy Cut Diamond
Briolette diamonds are found in antique and estate jewelry
from the Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco eras. They also are being newly cut,
especially in larger sizes like 10 to 12 carats, primarily in India. Even larger
Briolettes, up to 50 carats, are being cut in New York City.
PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS AND CUTTING ISSUES
The Briolette Cut is a drop-shaped stone with triangular or diamond shaped
facets all the way around. There is no table, crown or pavilion. The more facets
the drop has, the more brilliant it is. There is a lot of subtle, surface
reflection in many of the older Briolettes.
MARKETS AND MARKETING
Briolette diamonds are popular with designer-manufacturers, designer
retailers and in the auction market. Antique and estate dealers look for
Briolettes to replace broken or lost stones in old jewelry. Often the antique
ones have broken tops that then have to be recut and redrilled. Briolettes are sold unmounted and mounted. Briolettes are set
in earrings, necklaces and pendants. In antique or estate jewelry, they are also
included in tiaras.
They are often used for earrings with a hanging wire or a
simple precious metal cap, sometimes with a small diamond accent. Briolettes
have been featured in many industry publications and also in Jogue and Harper's
Bazaar.
Most Briolettes are cut from white rough, but colored diamond Briolettes,
especially fancy and canary yellows, are becoming more important, followed by
cognacs and other champagnes. The cut is also very popular for colored gemstones
PRICING AND SUPPLY
All of this demand has increased Briolette prices. A 30-point Briolette can
go for $1,000 per carat, a 1 carat Briolette can go from $2,000 to $2,500. All
sizes are popular now. Briolettes are cut from elongated, octahedron rough,
which yields just one stone. The yield is from 70 to 80 percent.
WHAT BUYERS SHOULD LOOK FOR
Every Briolette is unique, so look for beauty. Look for well-cut stones that
have lots of brilliancy. Odd-cut ones can also have brilliancy. But beware of
Briolettes in too much of a free-form shape, that are not round and not
pear-shaped, the "baked potato" effect. Also, make sure the hole is
large enough for the wire you intend to use. Some Briolettes' holes are
laser-drilled and too small for practical purposes.